Simple gardening - Preparing the ground, all about manure, and organic compost, making a home-made fertilizer /18

Ground preparations and fertilization

In the chapter Place, I discuss two main approaches to preparing your garden soil. Whichever method you choose, the most important thing is to ensure the ground is ready well before the growing season begins. This preparation sets the stage for a successful garden.

Here’s a tip: Prepare your entire garden space immediately, even if some plants won’t go into the ground until months later. By addressing everything early, you’ll keep your efforts organized and avoid the chaos of tackling different areas piecemeal. Plus, keeping the whole space weed-free prevents those pesky plants from spreading their seeds and taking over later. A little upfront effort saves you loads of trouble down the road!

What does garden-ready soil look like?

When your soil is ready for planting, it should have these key qualities:

Flat and even: No big holes or dips—this makes planting easier and ensures water doesn’t pool in uneven spots.

Clean and clear: Remove stones, weeds, branches, and any leftover plant debris. A tidy soil surface gives your plants a better start.

Loose and airy: The soil should crumble easily in your hands. Avoid compacted, clay-like soil that traps water, or dry, sandy soil that drains too quickly. A good balance ensures your plants’ roots can grow freely.

Well-nourished: Enrich the soil with compost, manure, or another organic fertilizer to promote healthy growth. Healthy, nutrient-rich soil feeds your plants and boosts their growth.

When we start a garden on a place that is overgrown with weeds, we can suppose that the soil is optimal. However, with the cultivation of vegetables, their quality decreases every year. For this reason, it is crucial to use interplanting, crop rotation, and annual replenishment of nutrients with compost. If we did not take care of the soil, there would be a reduction in growth and fruit production every season.

Fertilizers: the key to healthy soil and plants

We can categorize fertilizers into two main groups: those used for preparing the ground and those applied after planting to support healthy plant growth. In both cases, choosing natural and sustainable options is not only better for the environment but often more effective for your garden. Whenever possible, aim to use resources you can find locally—whether from your garden, nearby nature, or an organic farmer in your area. This approach keeps things simple, eco-friendly, and cost-effective.

It’s crucial to know its origins when using organic compost or manure. Some farmers feed their animals with hay from fields treated with herbicides. These chemicals can remain in the animals’ systems and end up in the manure, potentially harming your plants. Since these herbicides are designed to target broadleaf plants, they can unintentionally damage the very plants you want to grow in your garden.

If you’re unsure about the source, ask neighbors or fellow gardeners where they get theirs. If their gardens are thriving, it’s a good sign that the compost or manure they use is safe. Additionally, when we wish to use store-bought manure, it typically comes in granular form.

The same applies to homemade organic compost. If you’re using food scraps that aren’t from organic sources, residual chemicals can end up in your soil, affecting your plants’ health. And in consequence also yours.

Ground preparation

Manure and organic compost

When preparing your garden soil, the best natural fertilizers are well-matured manure or organic compost. These organic materials enrich the soil with essential nutrients and improve its texture, making it ready for planting.

From our discussion about individual plant families, we know that most garden plants prefer slightly acidic soil. This makes soil preparation easier because you don’t need to treat each garden bed with a specific fertilizer tailored to every plant’s needs. Instead, you can apply a single type of fertilizer across your entire property during this stage. After planting, you can fine-tune the care of individual plants with additional fertilizers as needed.

Why compost and manure work wonders

Compost: Compost provides a balanced mix of nutrients and improves soil structure, helping it retain moisture while staying well-aerated. It’s a fantastic choice for sustainably enriching your soil. Plus, if you make your compost, it’s essentially free!

Well-Matured Manure: Manure is a potent natural fertilizer rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. However, it must be fully matured (or aged) to avoid burning plants and to ensure weed seeds are no longer viable. When using fresh manure, there are specific instructions to follow.

The best time to use manure or organic compost

The best time to add manure or compost to your garden bed depends on the type of material you’re using and the type of plants you plan to grow. Here’s a general guideline:

Manure

Raw Manure: Apply it at least 3–6 months before planting (ideally in late fall or early winter). This allows it to break down, preventing the risk of burning plants or introducing harmful pathogens.

Well-Aged or Composted Manure: Can be added 2–4 weeks before planting in the spring. Since it has already broken down, it won’t harm your plants.

Compost

Fully Mature Compost: This can be applied at any time, even before planting. Mix it into the top few inches of soil for best results.

Partially Decomposed Compost: Apply it at least 2–4 weeks before planting to allow further breakdown and nutrient availability.

Organic compost is nutrient-rich soil from food scraps, branches, leaves, grass, plant parts, and even mushrooms. If properly made, it won’t harm your plants at any stage of decomposition.

However, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Fresh compost may still contain seeds from weeds or other plants, which could sprout in your garden. Also, remember that some plants are allelopathic, which means that their parts in compost could affect the growth of your plants when not fully decomposed (it’s better to compost those plants in a separate area). Additionally, compost in its early stages of decomposition won’t have the same high nutritional value as fully mature compost.

Time schedules for soil enrichment

Remember, seasonal guidelines are just general recommendations. Some plants, especially those planted in autumn, need soil preparation earlier to ensure they thrive.

Add manure or compost in the fall, and let it break down naturally in winter. This allows the soil ample time to absorb nutrients.

In the spring, refresh your garden beds with a new layer of compost before planting to boost the extra nutrients.

For heavy feeders—like tomatoes, squash, and corn—keep the nourishment going by applying compost as a top dressing throughout the growing season.

Types of manure and how to use them in the garden

Manure is an excellent natural fertilizer that enriches the soil with essential nutrients. However, different types of manure have different properties and should be used accordingly. Here’s a guide to the most common types and their applications.

Cow Manure
Cow manure has a balanced nutrient content, with moderate levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. It is suitable for most vegetables, flowers, and fruit trees.

Well-rotted or composted cow manure can be mixed into the soil before planting. It has to age for at least six months. To prevent plant damage, fresh cow manure should be aged for at least six months. It also works well as a soil conditioner, improving texture and water retention.

Horse Manure
Horse manure contains higher nitrogen levels but is lower in phosphorus and potassium. It is best for flower beds, shrubs, and trees. It must be well-aged or composted before use, as fresh horse manure contains high ammonia levels that can harm plants.

It is ideal for mixing into compost piles since it breaks down quickly and can be spread on garden beds in the fall to decompose over winter.

Chicken Manure
Chicken manure is very high in nitrogen, with good levels of phosphorus and potassium. It is best for leafy greens, corn, lemon trees, and other heavy feeders. Fresh chicken manure is too strong for direct application and should always be composted first.

Once aged, it can be used as a top dressing or mixed into garden soil. It is also a great addition to compost piles, boosting the decomposition process.

Sheep Manure
Sheep manure is well-balanced and rich in nutrients, with a high nitrogen content. It is ideal for vegetable gardens and raised beds. Naturally drier than other manures, it is easy to handle and can be applied directly in small amounts or composted for a more balanced fertilizer. It is excellent for improving soil aeration and water retention.

Goat Manure
Goat manure is similar to sheep manure but has slightly lower nitrogen levels. It is best for general soil enrichment, fruit trees, and vegetable gardens. It breaks down quickly, making it a good addition to compost piles. It can be mixed into the soil before planting and works well as a slow-release fertilizer when used in moderation.

Rabbit Manure
Rabbit manure is high in nitrogen and phosphorus, with a good balance of potassium. It is best for root crops, leafy greens, and fruiting plants. Unlike other manures, rabbit manure does not need to be composted before use and can be applied fresh as a top dressing. It can also be added directly into compost bins to enrich other materials.

Pig Manure
Pig manure has a moderate nitrogen content but can contain pathogens if not properly treated and managed. It is best for trees, shrubs, and non-edible plants. It must be composted for at least six months before use to eliminate harmful bacteria. It is generally recommended for ornamental gardens rather than vegetable beds due to a higher risk of pathogen contamination.

Alpaca and Llama Manure
Alpaca and llama manure contain lower nitrogen levels than other manures but are still rich in organic matter. They are suitable for flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees. These manures do not require composting before application and can be used fresh as a top dressing or mixed into the soil. They are also ideal for improving soil texture without overwhelming plants with nutrients.

Best Practices for Using Manure
Always compost fresh manure before using it in vegetable gardens to avoid burning plants and to eliminate harmful bacteria. Apply it in fall or early spring to give it time to break down before the growing season. Mix well with soil rather than leaving it on the surface to prevent nitrogen loss. Use manure in moderation, as excessive amounts can lead to nutrient imbalances or excessive nitrogen, which can harm certain plants.

Everything about organic compost

Organic compost is a must-have for every garden. It’s an easy and natural way to recycle garden waste, such as grass clippings, branches, and leaves, turning them into nutrient-rich soil. The best part? What was once waste transforms into pure gold for your plants!

In my fruit tree garden, I let the leaves fall naturally and decompose independently. This enriches the soil with minimal effort. However, I prefer to keep things tidy in my ornamental garden, as fallen leaves can become slippery and unsafe for kids. To solve this, I created enclosed spaces around the trees where I continuously add wood chips and leaves throughout the year. This way, the trees still get nutrients, but the area stays neat. Since I have many leaves, I also keep a separate space where they can decompose naturally. I use a significant portion of them as mulch in all stages of decomposition.

I recommend building an enclosed space for better leaf composting; otherwise, wind and rain will scatter them. The best option is a netted enclosure, which keeps the leaves in place while allowing airflow, thereby helping them break down more quickly.

For other garden waste, I built a simple wooden compost pile. I toss kitchen scraps, leaves, grass clippings, branches, and even edible mushroom scraps here. Interestingly, new plants sometimes sprout from the pile—my avocado trees, for example, all started from avocado pits I threw in! The compost pile stays naturally rich in nutrients and generates a lot of heat, creating the perfect environment for seeds to germinate (a thing to remember when throwing in seeds of weeds).

I don’t strictly follow the recommended composting ratios—I just add whatever I need to dispose of, and nature balances it out on its own.

And don’t worry about bad smells! Even with kitchen scraps, compost doesn’t produce an unpleasant odor. But in the case of smells, add more brown waste and turn it more often.

Simple way to make organic compost

Composting is easy, but following simple guidelines will help you create rich, nutrient-dense soil more efficiently. You can customize your composting setup based on your needs, space, and what works best for your garden.

Composting place and method

Pick a designated area in your garden and decide which composting method suits you best:

Compost pile – A simple heap of organic material

Compost bin – A contained and tidy option

Trench composting – Dig a hole and bury organic waste directly in the soil

Free space composting – Let nature do its work in an open area

The basic rules of composting are simple—decomposing materials need both moisture and airflow. Regularly turning the pile helps aerate it, but the structure of the compost bin or pile itself should also support these needs.

Building a compost pile

For optimal results, use natural materials to construct your compost bin. It should have:

An open top to let the rain in.
Sides with holes or gaps for proper ventilation.
A bottom that touches the ground so beneficial microorganisms and worms can access it.

As your compost breaks down and you continue adding new materials, you’ll need a second compost pile or open space. This allows you to move the finished compost to one area while the fresh materials decompose in the original pile.

Compost ingredients

A well-balanced compost pile needs green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (carbon-rich) waste.

Green Waste (Nitrogen-Rich): kitchen scraps (cores, peels, and parts of vegetables, fruit, and herbs), coffee grounds and organic tea bags, grass clippings, fresh garden waste

Brown Waste (Carbon-Rich): dry leaves and straw, sawdust and wood chips (from untreated wood), small branches and twigs, natural, organic cardboard (without ink or plastic coating)

Maintaining compost

Turn the pile every one to two weeks to aerate it and speed up decomposition.
Keep it moist, like a damp sponge. Water it if it gets too dry.
Chop up larger materials to help them break down faster.
Look for worms. A healthy compost pile will contain worms and other helpful creatures that break down organic matter.
Monitor the temperature. As compost decomposes, it generates heat, creating a fermenting environment. This natural warmth is why compost is also great as mulch in winter—it helps insulate plants.

New soil is ready to use

After six months or more, your compost should be dark, crumbly, and have a rich, earthy smell. Once it reaches this stage, it is ready to mix into your garden soil.

If any large pieces remain, such as stones or nutshells, use a compost sieve to separate them from the finished compost.

What to avoid in compost

Do not add:

Processed food leftovers
Dairy or meat (causes terrible odors and attracts animals)
Fruit and vegetable stickers, plastic bags, or non-organic tea bags
Weeds with seeds or plants with diseases
Pets (dogs, cats) or human waste
Anything exposed to chemicals (dishwashing gel, pesticides, etc.)

Some materials, like eggshells and nutshells, take a long time to break down but eventually decompose. But this doesn’t apply to plastic materials, stones, and metals.

Dairy and meat attract pests and can lead to a garden infested with butcher flies.

Always keep in mind that organic compost is made entirely from natural materials. You can include empty snail shells, but nothing artificial—no packaging, plastic wraps, fabrics, glass, or wires. The only exception is organic cardboard, provided it is free from coatings, inks, and adhesives.

Types of Manure and How to Use It in the Garden

Cow Manure
Cow manure has a balanced nutrient content with moderate levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. It is suitable for most vegetables, flowers, and fruit trees.

Well-rotted or composted cow manure can be mixed into the soil before planting. Fresh cow manure should be aged for at least six months to prevent plant damage. It also works well as a soil conditioner, improving texture and water retention.

It is ideal for mixing into compost piles since it breaks down quickly and can be spread on garden beds in the fall to decompose over winter.

Once aged, it can be used as a top dressing or mixed into garden soil. It is also a great addition to compost piles, boosting the decomposition process.

Best Practices for Using Manure
Always compost fresh manure before using it in vegetable gardens to avoid burning plants and to eliminate harmful bacteria. Apply it in fall or early spring to give it time to break down before the growing season. Mix well with soil rather than leaving it on the surface to prevent nitrogen loss. Use manure in moderation, as excessive use can lead to nutrient imbalances or excessive nitrogen, which can harm certain plants.

Natural Fertilizers for Growing Plants

Once the soil is prepared and plants have started growing, you might consider giving them an extra boost with natural fertilizers. This can help strengthen their growth, improve their health, and enhance their appearance. For potted plants, fertilization is essential, as they have limited access to nutrients due to their confined space.

It’s important to remember that when it comes to fertilizing, less is more. Adding too many nutrients won’t necessarily result in more vigorous plants—on the contrary, it can harm them. Think of it like taking vitamins: while they are beneficial in the right amounts, consuming an entire bottle every day would soon make you feel unwell. The same principle applies to plants. They naturally absorb nutrients from the soil, so any additional fertilization should be done in moderation.

Adjusting Fertilization After Planting

Once your plants are established, you can adjust fertilization based on their specific needs. Different plants require different nutrients at various stages of growth, so observing their condition and responding accordingly will help maintain their health and vitality.

It all comes down to the specific needs of each plant and its current stage of growth. A good rule of thumb is to add fertilizer in the spring to give plants a boost as they start growing, and then again when they begin producing fruit. Timing is key—if you fertilize at the wrong stage, you might end up with plants that grow lots of lush, leafy foliage but don’t produce much fruit. Too many nutrients too early can encourage excessive leaf growth, which can end up shading the flowers and preventing proper fruit development.

Heavy feeders (such as tomatoes, peppers, and squash): These plants may require an additional boost of nutrients, such as compost tea or organic liquid fertilizers, during their growth stage.
Root crops (such as carrots, beets, and radishes): These prefer soil with balanced nutrients and no fresh manure, as excessive nitrogen can hinder root development.
Leafy greens (such as lettuce and spinach) benefit from consistent, mild fertilization to maintain tender, nutrient-rich leaves.

Homemade liquid fertilizers

My favorite homemade organic fertilizer is the one made of nettles. Nettle liquid fertilizer is an excellent natural booster for plants, rich in nitrogen, minerals, and beneficial compounds that promote vigorous growth. It is valuable for leafy greens, vegetables, and fruiting plants, helping them develop lush foliage and resistance to pests. This homemade fertilizer is easy to make and completely organic.

Benefits of Nettle Fertilizer

High in nitrogen, which supports leaf and stem growth
Contains essential minerals like iron, magnesium, and calcium
Strengthens plants against pests and diseases
Improves soil health and microbial activity
Cost-effective and easy to prepare

How to Make Nettle Liquid Fertilizer

Ingredients and Materials:

Fresh nettles (avoid plants with seeds)
A large container (bucket or barrel)
Water (preferably rainwater)
A stirring stick
A fine mesh or cloth for straining (optional)

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Harvest the Nettles – Collect fresh nettles, preferably young leaves, before they flower. Wear gloves to avoid stings.
Fill the Container – Chop the nettles into smaller pieces and place them in your container, filling it about two-thirds full.
Add Water – Pour water over the nettles until they are fully submerged. Use approximately 10 parts water to 1 part nettles.
Let It Ferment – Cover the container loosely to allow airflow while keeping insects out. Leave the mixture to ferment for 1-2 weeks, stirring every few days. The liquid will darken, and a strong odor will develop, indicating the fermentation process is working.
Strain and Store – Once the fermentation is complete, strain out the plant material using a cloth or sieve. The leftover nettle solids can be added to your compost.
Dilute Before Use – Nettle fertilizer is potent and should be diluted before applying to plants. Use a ratio of 1 part nettle liquid to 10 parts water for watering plants at the base. If spraying on leaves, dilute it further to 1:20 to prevent leaf burn.

How to Use Nettle Fertilizer

Apply it to plants once every 1-2 weeks during the growing season.
Use it as a foliar spray (well-diluted) to help plants absorb nutrients directly through their leaves.
Pour it around the base of plants to enrich the soil and encourage strong root development.
Ideal for nitrogen-loving plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, lettuce, and brassicas.

Keep in mind that during fermentation, nettle fertilizer develops a very strong odor, similar to fresh cow manure. Because of this, it’s best to place your container away from your house, outdoor seating areas, or your neighbor’s windows.

I know this might sound like a sneaky way to annoy your neighbors, but trust me—don’t do it! If a disagreement arises and you need to move the container, you’ll quickly realize how difficult it is to relocate a full, heavy bucket of fermented nettle liquid. Worse yet, you might accidentally spill it on yourself, and that’s an experience you definitely want to avoid! Choose your brewing spot wisely from the start.

Other plants used for making fertilizer

You can make liquid fertilizer from various plants, each offering unique benefits to your garden. Many nutrient-rich plants can be fermented to create a homemade fertilizer that improves soil health, strengthens plants, and provides essential nutrients. Here are some excellent options, along with their applications.

1. Comfrey Fertilizer

Best for: Fruit and flowering plants (tomatoes, peppers, squash, berries)
Nutrients: High in potassium, phosphorus, and calcium

Comfrey is one of the best plants for homemade fertilizer, especially for promoting flowering and fruiting. Like nettles, comfrey leaves are packed with nutrients that break down into a highly effective plant feed.

How to make:

Collect comfrey leaves, chop them up, and place them in a bucket.
Fill with water at a 10:1 ratio (10 parts water to 1 part leaves).
Ferment for 2-3 weeks, stirring occasionally.
Strain and dilute 1:10 before applying to plants.

2. Dandelion Fertilizer

Best for: General plant health and root development
Nutrients: Rich in iron, potassium, phosphorus, and trace minerals

Dandelions are a great natural source of minerals that help improve soil structure and encourage strong root growth. Their deep taproots absorb nutrients from the soil, making them an excellent ingredient for liquid fertilizer.

How to make:

Harvest dandelion leaves and flowers.
Fill a container halfway with dandelions and cover with water.
Let it ferment for 2 weeks, stirring occasionally.
Strain and dilute 1:5 before use.

3. Grass Clipping Tea

Best for: Nitrogen-loving plants (leafy greens, corn, brassicas)
Nutrients: High in nitrogen

Fresh grass clippings break down quickly and provide a nitrogen-rich liquid feed, ideal for boosting leafy plant growth.

How to make:

Fill a bucket halfway with fresh grass clippings.
Add water to the top and stir until well combined.
Allow it to steep for 3-5 days (not too long, or it will develop an unpleasant odor).
Strain and dilute 1:5 before watering plants.

4. Banana Peel Fertilizer

Best for: Flowering and fruiting plants (roses, tomatoes, peppers)
Nutrients: High in potassium and phosphorus

Banana peels decompose quickly, releasing essential nutrients that enhance flower and fruit production. I also like to use this product on my indoor plants—after use, they have firm, glossy, and bright-colored leaves.

How to make:

Chop banana peels into small pieces.
Place them in a jar, cover them with water, and let them soak for 24 to 48 hours.
Use the infused water as a liquid fertilizer; there is no need to dilute it.
You can also blend banana peels with water for an instant nutrient boost.

5. Seaweed Fertilizer (For Coastal Areas)

Best for: Overall plant health, resistance to stress and pests
Nutrients: Rich in trace minerals, magnesium, and growth hormones

Seaweed is rich in beneficial minerals that enhance soil structure and support strong plant growth.

How to make:

Rinse fresh seaweed to remove excess salt.
Fill a bucket halfway with seaweed and cover with water.
Let it steep for 2-3 weeks, stirring occasionally.
Strain and dilute 1:10 before applying to plants.

How to Use Liquid Fertilizers

Apply once every 1-2 weeks during the growing season.
Pour around the base of plants or use a sprayer for foliar feeding.
Always dilute concentrated fertilizers to avoid overfeeding plants.

Sometimes, I like to experiment by mixing different plants that I would generally add to the compost to create my unique variations of liquid fertilizer. Each plant brings different nutrients to the mix, and by combining them, you can tailor a fertilizer blend that suits your garden’s specific needs.

You can try creating your own “secret formula” by testing different plant combinations and observing how your plants respond to them. Whether you mix nettles with comfrey for a balanced nitrogen-potassium boost or add dandelions and banana peels for extra minerals, there’s no limit to the natural fertilizers you can create. Over time, you’ll discover the perfect blend that works best for your soil, plants, and growing conditions.

Mulching

Mulching is something nature does all on its own. Leaves, wood, stones, and other organic materials naturally fall to the ground, forming a protective layer over the soil. This keeps the ground moist, shields plant roots from freezing in the winter, and prevents them from getting scorched in the summer. In the garden, we use mulch not only for these benefits but also as a natural barrier to keep weeds from taking over.

When it comes to choosing mulch, I prefer to use materials that are already available in the surrounding environment. It keeps things tidy, reduces extra work, and helps maintain a more self-sufficient garden. Of course, I make a few exceptions—especially when creating paths or ornamental flower beds. For example, my vegetable garden is near some hazelnut trees, so I use their fallen leaves to cover garlic, onions, and fava beans during the winter. However, for garden paths, I use straw, which I have to buy since there are no nearby grain fields. The same goes for bark mulch, which I use for my ornamental plants. Leaves wouldn’t look as lovely in flower beds, and some delicate plants are so small that they could rot if covered with leaves in a damp environment.

What type of natural mulch can we use in the garden?

Always remember to use only natural and organic materials. If possible, shred your materials for mulching before disposing of them.

Bark and Wood Chips

Best for: Flower beds, pathways, trees, and shrubs.
Ideal wood for mulching: fruit trees, hazelnut tree, oak, maple, beech, birch, cedar, pine (for acidic plants)
Wood to avoid: Walnut and eucalyptus (could inhibit plant growth), fresh sawdust (Can deplete nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes. If using sawdust, mix it with compost or aged manure first.)
How to use: Apply a 2–4 inch layer, keeping it a few inches away from plant stems to prevent rot.

Straw and Hay

Best for: Vegetable gardens and strawberries.
How to use: Spread a 3–6 inch layer around plants, avoiding direct contact with the stems.

Grass Clippings

Best for: Lawns and vegetable gardens.
How to use: Apply a thin (1–2 inch) layer and let it dry before adding more to prevent matting.

Leaves

Best for: Flower beds, vegetable gardens, and trees.
Ideal trees for mulching: fruit trees, hazelnut tree, maple, oak, birch, beech
Trees to avoid for mulching: walnut and eucalyptus (could inhibit plant growth), magnolia (leaves are too stiff and don’t decompose well)
How to use: Shred dry leaves to prevent clumping and spread a 2–3 inch layer.

Compost

Best for: Vegetable and flower gardens.
How to use: Apply a 1–2 inch layer as a mulch or mix it into the soil for added nutrients.

Pine Needles

Best for: Acid-loving plants (e.g., blueberries, azaleas).
How to use: Spread a 2–3 inch layer around plants.

Fresh wood chips can be a great addition to your compost, used for garden pathways, or simply left to break down in a designated area—just like fallen trees decompose naturally in the wild.

The speed at which mulch decomposes depends on weather conditions. When using mulch for ornamental plants, it’s always a good idea to refresh the soil with a layer of organic compost or fertilizer first. This ensures that the plants continue to receive the nutrients they need. After that, you can top it off with a fresh layer of mulch to keep everything looking neat and well-nourished.