Growing from seeds and planting plants
This is the most exciting part—growing your food! When starting, you might wonder which is the better option: buying plants or growing them from seed. Let’s take a closer look at both options so you can decide what works best for you.
Store-Bought Seedlings vs. Starting from Seed
Buying seedlings from the store is undoubtedly quicker and more convenient, but it’s also the pricier option. With a single packet of seeds, you could potentially grow hundreds of plants (depending on the packet size), while at the store, you might only get a few plants for the exact cost.
Once your plants mature, you can let some go to seed and collect them for future planting. In this way, it becomes a one-time investment that continues to give. Try to buy seeds and plants that are bio and not marked with the word “hybrid”, as these plants will grow well, but will be difficult to propagate further.
Hybrid plants are created by crossing two different parent plants with specific, carefully selected traits. The seeds from these hybrids don’t carry the same stable genetics, so the next generation often reverts to a mix of characteristics from the original parent plants. This means plants grown from saved seeds might not have the same size, yield, taste, or disease resistance.
Both methods—seeds and store-bought seedlings — have their advantages and disadvantages. Let’s outline a few key points for each approach.
Store-Bought Plants
Pros:
- Quick and convenient
- Already suited to the season and local conditions
- Allows for precise quantity control
- You can see the health of the plant before buying
- Access to professional advice from staff
Cons:
- Higher cost
- Potential exposure to chemical fertilizers
- Risk of bringing pests or diseases into your garden
In large garden centers, the focus is often on producing attractive, high-yield plants rather than on sustainable practices. This can mean the seedlings are treated with growth-boosting chemicals to make them look lush and appealing. It’s not uncommon for these plants to look perfect initially, only to wither after a few days because they’re no longer getting the same treatments.
Of course, sometimes it’s simply a matter of the plant completing its growth cycle, or it might be a seasonal variety that won’t reappear until next year – this applies more for annual or ornamental flowers.
However, it’s essential to check store-bought vegetable seedlings for pests like slugs and parasites. When you bring them home, take the time to rinse them under running water (away from your garden), inspect the root system, and clean them before planting.
I learned this the hard way. Once, I skipped this step and ended up with a batch of lettuce infested with slugs. They spread quickly in my greenhouse and devoured everything in sight. But on the bright side, I discovered new varieties of lettuce that slugs tend to avoid, so I try to plant mainly these (maybe you remember that I already mentioned this – that I didn’t write down the name of the exact lettuce variety, so that’s why “I try” :-))
Plants Grown from Seeds
Pros:
- Lower cost and higher yield per packet
- Complete control over the growing process (e.g., organic or natural methods)
- A wider selection of plant varieties
- It’s rewarding to watch plants develop from seed to maturity
Cons:
- Requires time, space, and appropriate conditions for seedlings
- Unpredictable results (some seeds may not sprout, or too many might)
- Additional steps like thinning and transplanting seedlings are needed
- Need to match sowing and planting to the correct seasons
Growing plants from seeds is such a fun and rewarding experience! It brings so much joy to watch your efforts turn into tiny plants sprouting and thriving. The process of growing and later planting them is an adventure in itself. You’ll find yourself caring for these plants much more deeply than others because you’ve nurtured them from the very beginning.
I often end up growing more plants than I need, so I love sharing them with friends and neighbors. Whenever I give plants away, I always ask how they’re doing—if they’ve been planted, how they’re growing, and whether they’re thriving. Sometimes I even visit to check on them! If it’s a friend’s place I frequent, I can’t help but pitch in—watering them or pulling a few weeds if it seems necessary. There’s just something special about caring for plants you’ve grown yourself; it creates a unique bond and sense of responsibility.
Seeds from store-bought vegetables
Have you ever wondered if you can save seeds from store-bought vegetables and use them to grow your plants? The answer is yes, of course.
The key is to choose vegetables from organic (bio) gardeners. Not all store vegetables come from sustainable sources. Some are grown in hydroponic systems and/or treated with chemical growth inhibitors to enhance their visual appeal. These methods can affect the quality of the seeds, as many commercial farmers prioritize smaller or even non-productive seeds, especially in hybrid varieties.
That said, I’ve had great success growing plants from the seeds of store-bought vegetables. Sometimes they’ve performed even better than seeds from a packet! If the vegetables come from local farmers who grow them naturally, it’s most likely like harvesting seeds from your own garden.
Collecting your own seeds
In the chapter about plant families, I shared how to collect seeds and propagate specific plants. But here, I’d like to highlight some general tips for all the plants I’ve mentioned.
Seed collection can be grouped into two primary methods: collecting seeds from fruits and collecting seeds from flowers. I’ll keep this explanation simple because there’s no need to dive into all the different plant types.
Collecting Seeds from Flowers
Many plants, such as lettuce, broccoli, chamomile, carrots, and black cabbage, produce seeds through their flowers. To collect seeds, you’ll need to let some plants flower or wait for the whole crop to flower as they finish their life cycle.
How this works depends a lot on the type of plant. For example, broccoli is technically a flower before it fully blooms, so if you wait for it to flower completely, you’ll miss out on harvesting the edible part. On the other hand, plants like lettuce and black cabbage naturally complete their cycle and flower once their leaves are done growing—making it easy to collect their seeds since we’re eating the leaves anyway.
How to Collect Seeds from Flowers
To collect seeds, wait until the flowers have blossomed and dried thoroughly. The seeds must be fully developed, but don’t wait too long—wind or other factors might scatter them onto the ground before you get the chance!
For some plants, a simple trick can be used: create a small pouch with breathable, transparent cloth and tie it around the flower. This allows the flower to blossom and dry naturally, while the seeds fall into your pouch. This method works well for plants with round flower heads, like onions or carrots.
Other plants, like black cabbage, form seed pods after flowering. Once the pods are fully developed, gently cut the entire stem with the pods. Hang it to dry, and for extra security, you can cover the pods with a paper bag or cloth (similar to the method for carrot flowers). Once the pods are completely dry, they’re easy to break open, allowing you to collect the seeds.
Ensure your seeds are completely dry before storing them, whether in a paper bag or a jar. Any leftover moisture can lead to mold in a sealed environment.
To keep your collected seeds in the best condition, store them in a cool, dry place. This helps prevent mold growth and unwanted germination, ensuring they stay viable for future planting!
Collecting Seeds from Fruit
Some plants make seed collecting even easier by developing their seeds inside the fruit. All you need to do is wait until the fruit is ripe, open it up, and collect the seeds!
Here’s how to do it:
- Collect the seeds and remove all the pulp. The easiest way is to rinse them under water using a sieve.
- Spread the clean seeds on a paper towel or clean cloth and let them dry completely.
- Ensure the seeds are dehydrated and free of pulp before storing them—otherwise, they may develop mold.
Once dry, store the seeds in a paper bag or a glass jar. This method works well for plants like pumpkins, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and similar crops.
For legumes, which are seeds we often eat, you’ll need to set aside some as “sacrifices” for planting next season.
Some fruits, like garlic or potatoes, are seeds themselves. In these cases, store a portion of them in a dry, cool, and well-ventilated place until it’s time to plant. I like to use simple wooden boxes for this purpose—they work great!
Keeping collected seeds in order
When collecting and conserving seeds, it’s essential to keep them organized, making it easier to work with them later. This step is often overlooked, resulting in a lot of bags, jars, and paper towels full of seeds from which we don’t remember the plant or when we collected them.
When storing larger seeds, which you will keep in a glass jar, tie a cord with a paper label around the jar. Like this, you can always reuse your jar, because if you put a sticker on it, then it’s messy to remove or worse, rewrite it. After using the seeds, remember to clean and dry your jar very well, so it will be ready for the next seeds.
The same goes for the paper bag. Simply tie a cord with the label on it. I found paper bags very useful when collecting seeds that are in large quantities or fluffy (very often from ornamental flowers)
For smaller seeds, a simple paper envelope is sufficient. There is no need to conserve hundreds of the same seeds. Based on your space and intention, collect only as much as you will need, and a little extra in case they do not germinate – possibly from different sources.
Making Seed Envelopes
You can either buy ready-made envelopes or have fun making your own! It’s an enjoyable and straightforward DIY project. I love using natural paper made from food waste, but you can choose any type of paper—ecological, recycled, or even watercolor paper.
One thing to keep in mind is the paper’s grammage (thickness and durability). Thin paper, like standard printer paper, tends to wear out quickly. Using thicker, sturdier paper ensures your envelopes last for years, so you won’t have to make or buy new ones every season.
If you’re thinking, “Is this worth the effort?”—the answer is yes! Creativity and fun are never a waste of time.
What You’ll Need to Make Seed Envelopes:
- A4-sized paper
- Scissors and a cutter
- A stapler or natural glue
- A pen
Finishing Your Seed Envelopes
When cutting the top opening, try to make the cut as small as possible. This way, your paper label will stay securely in place without needing tape to hold it. Each season, instead of replacing the entire label, you can simply trim the top part—no need for a complete replacement!
Get creative with your envelopes by decorating them! You can use watercolors, ink, or any other artistic touch to make them unique and beautiful.
As for closing your envelopes, you have several options. You can simply tuck the top flap inside, make a small cut to secure it, or tie it with a cord. I love using metal eyelets with brass fasteners—not only do they look great, but they’re also reasonably practical!
Planting Directly in the Ground or Pre-Cultivation?
When deciding whether to plant directly in the ground or pre-cultivate, the choice depends on the type of plant and the prevailing conditions. Some seeds can be sown directly in the soil, making the process convenient and straightforward.
Examples of Plants for Direct Sowing
Plants such as legumes, garlic, onions, potatoes, carrots, radishes, beets, lettuce, corn, cilantro, parsley, dill, basil, kale, chamomile, marigolds, and sunflowers can be sown directly into the ground without pre-cultivation.
Choosing Between Direct Sowing and Pre-Cultivation
For some plants, you have the flexibility to choose either option. For instance, if you’re growing a loose-leaf variety of lettuce, you can sow it directly in the soil. However, if you’re planting a variety that forms a large head, it’s better to start them in pots or containers and transplant them later.
Plants like melons, pumpkins, and cucumbers can also be sown directly, but there’s a higher risk of them being eaten by pests like snails when they’re young and tender. To avoid this, pre-growing them indoors until they’re stronger and then transplanting them outdoors (with pest protection, such as nets or barriers) is often a safer choice.
Tips for Successful Direct Sowing
- Sow the Right Amount
Don’t sow too few or too many seeds. Balance is key. - Choose the Right Spot and Timing
Check your local weather and planting calendar. Keep a record in your gardening journal/herbarium to track what works best. - Pick a Sunny Day
Sowing is best done on a sunny morning—not during rainy weather, as seeds could get washed away. - Prepare the Soil
Ensure the soil is loose and not compacted, allowing the seeds to germinate and form roots easily. - Cover Appropriately
Most seeds require a light layer of soil on top, but always check the specific needs of the seeds you’re planting. Some, like yarrow, require remaining uncovered to germinate. - Monitor Weather Conditions
Seeds need the right balance of moisture, sunlight, and warmth. Excessive rain can wash them away, while poor sunlight can delay germination, leading to seed rot (in the case of humid weather).
Spacing and Seed Quantity
When direct sowing, always consider proper spacing. Each seed has the potential to grow into a whole plant, so avoid overcrowding to ensure optimal growth. While sowing extra seeds may seem like a good idea to ensure germination, it can lead to overcrowding and weaker plants.
Direct sawing
- Prepare the Area
Mark the borders and label what you’ve planted. - Prepare the Soil
Loosen the ground and ensure it’s free of weeds and debris. - Sow the Seeds
Check the recommended spacing and depth for each seed type. - Cover and Press Lightly
Gently cover the seeds with soil and press lightly to secure them in place. - Water Gently
Use a spray nozzle or watering can to gently moisten the soil, avoiding the risk of washing the seeds away. - Maintain Moisture
Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate. Once the plants have sprouted, adjust watering according to their needs.
Interplanting and Direct Sowing
For interplanting, it’s usually better to use already-grown plants. This helps avoid issues such as competition for light and space, or plants growing at different rates. For example, aromatic herbs like basil can act as natural pest control, but if planted at the same time as vegetables, they may not sprout in time or could struggle against weeds.
When weeds grow alongside slow-germinating seeds, they can overshadow or choke your plants. In the early stages, it is hard to distinguish your sprouting seedlings from the weeds, especially if you plant many types of plants. It can already be too late, because your plants won’t grow or they grow in a small amount. Some plants, like basil, are particularly sensitive and won’t grow if weeds are nearby.
Tips for Interplanting
- Use Established Plants
Select mature plants for interplanting to ensure they thrive together. - Mark the Area Clearly
Label plants with their names, placing signs at a distance that avoids disturbing the roots. - Plan for Compatibility
Pair plants that complement each other’s growth and space requirements to prevent overcrowding or competition.
Growing plants from the seeds in Your Greenhouse
Growing your plants from seeds indoors is a fantastic way to give them a head start. While it might seem natural to plant seeds in pots and leave them outside, especially if the other seeds can germinate in the ground, there are key differences to consider.
When you plant seeds directly in the ground, it typically means the conditions for growth—like temperature, moisture, and sunlight—are already ideal. The soil naturally regulates moisture, so seeds are less likely to become waterlogged in normal weather (outside of heavy rain).
However, when growing seedlings indoors or in a greenhouse, you create an environment where conditions are optimized before the ideal outdoor growing season begins. This allows you to get a head start, giving your seedlings time to grow strong before transplanting them into the garden once temperatures are consistently favorable.
Leaving pots with seeds outside without protection can lead to several challenges:
- Waterlogging: Rain can cause excess water to collect in pots, leading to seed rot.
- Cold Temperatures: Young seeds are sensitive to freezing, and low temperatures can delay germination or stunt growth.
- Insufficient Sunlight: Early in the season, the sun may not provide enough warmth or light for successful sprouting.
By starting seeds indoors, you control these variables. Once the seedlings are vigorous and the weather outside has warmed up, you can transplant them into the garden, ensuring they have the best possible chance to thrive.
The best indoor option is a greenhouse, which can also serve as a hotbed. I would not recommend starting your seeds indoors, as it will be harder to create optimal growth conditions (although this may depend on your specific circumstances).
If the weather isn’t cooperating, don’t rush—sometimes it’s better to wait a few days than risk losing all your plants. For example, I typically start my seeds in the middle of spring, but there was one year when it stayed unusually cold and rained nearly every day until late spring. I tried starting some seeds early, but none of them sprouted. When I finally planted the remaining seeds at the end of spring, they grew much faster than usual. In the end, I had healthy seedlings ready to plant at the same time as my neighbors, who had bought their plants from the garden shop. Waiting for the right conditions turned out to be the better choice, and my plants thrived! Patience truly pays off in gardening.
Every plant has its own unique life cycle, which can range from as short as two months (such as lettuce) to as long as ten months (like garlic or certain legumes). Timing is everything when it comes to planting. For example, I usually plant garlic in mid-autumn, directly in the ground. At this time, the temperatures are mild—not too hot or freezing—creating the perfect conditions for garlic to sprout easily. It grows slowly, just as it needs to, and is ready for harvest by summer. If you plant garlic too late, it may not germinate properly. If you happen to miss the ideal planting window, it’s best to pick a different plant for that spot instead.
Starting the seeds indoors:
When your seeds are ready and the weather conditions are just right, it’s time to get started!
Containers
There’s no need to buy fancy equipment or seed starter containers from garden shops. You can repurpose items you already have, like old plastic containers from food packaging, unused flower pots, or any other container that’s deep enough and, ideally, has drainage holes.
If you prefer natural materials, terracotta pots are a great choice. However, it’s best to avoid wooden containers, as they can encourage the growth of mold and fungi.
If you’re using a container without drainage holes and can’t add them, don’t worry! Just be extra cautious with watering. Only water the surface of the soil, ensuring no excess water collects at the bottom of the container. In this case, it is crucial to keep them indoors.
You don’t need to use extra-deep pots or containers for seedlings, as their roots will remain relatively small—usually around 20 cm, depending on the plant. However, it’s also essential to avoid containers that are too shallow. Shallow containers can cause the roots to become overcrowded, limiting their ability to grow appropriately.
Using a pot that’s too deep can make things trickier. It takes more water to maintain the proper soil moisture, and much of the soil goes unused. While you could save that extra soil for other plants, it’s a waste of resources. If you only fill the deep pot partway, the tall sides can create too much shade, preventing seeds from germinating.
As the plant grows taller, its roots also need room to expand. Choosing the right-sized container will ensure your seedlings have enough space to develop strong and healthy root systems.
You can opt for containers with separate sections, allowing you to plant one seed per section. This is an excellent choice because it helps prevent root damage when it’s time to transplant. However, it’s perfectly fine to sow seeds together in a single container too. Just be mindful not to overcrowd them.
When I use small flower pots, I usually plant three seeds per pot since they’re easy to separate later. For larger containers, I grow more seeds, but I always ensure that I don’t use the entire seed packet—there would be far too many seedlings to manage.
Soil
The ideal soil for seedlings is rich in well-matured compost, loose in texture, and able to retain water effectively. Avoid using soil collected from your garden, as it might contain stones, weed seeds (even if you can’t see them), or other unwanted materials that can interfere with seedling growth.
For the best results, use soil that you’ve prepared yourself or opt for store-bought universal soil. Both options provide a clean, nutrient-rich base to give your seedlings the best start.
A simple way to start your seeds:
- Prepare Your Pots and Containers
Before and after each season, thoroughly clean your pots and containers. This helps prevent the spread of plant diseases or pests that can accumulate over time. - Fill with Soil
Add soil to your container, filling it about three-quarters full. Lightly press the soil down to create a firm base, then place your seeds on top. Cover the seeds with a layer of soil and gently press the surface again to ensure the seeds are firmly in place. - Water Carefully
Water the soil to keep it moist, but avoid overwatering to prevent seeds from being washed away or moving. A gentle hand is key here. - Pre-Moisten the Soil (Optional)
If you prefer, you can moisten the soil before placing your seeds. This helps prevent them from floating or shifting when you water. - Place the labels of your plants with the exact name.
Some people like to soak the seeds before planting to see if they are viable or not. I don’t think it’s necessary. I’ve never taken this step, but I still always succeed.
Make sure you keep the soil moist, never letting it dry completely or overwatering it.
Labeling Your Seeds – A Simple but Crucial Step
One of the most important things you can do when planting seeds is to label every pot or container with the exact name of the plant—and if possible, the date you sowed it. You might think you’ll remember what’s what after a few days or weeks, but trust me, it’s easy to forget!
This is especially important when planting multiple varieties of the same plant. For example, if you’re growing three different types of tomatoes, labeling them helps you know exactly which is which, so you can plant them in the right spot later.
Some plants also look incredibly similar when they’re small—like pumpkins and zucchini. If you mix them up, you could end up planting them in the wrong place, and trying to fix it later would be a real hassle.
Growing seedlings
If everything goes smoothly, you should see your seeds sprouting within a few days. Some seeds take longer to germinate, so don’t worry—just be patient. However, if nothing happens after two weeks, it might be a sign that the seeds were of poor quality (old, empty, or damaged) or that they’ve rotted. You can gently uncover the soil to check. If you see a tiny sprout, carefully cover it back up and give it more time to grow. If not, consider planting new seeds and think about what might have caused the issue.
Germinating
When your plant begins to germinate, the first thing you’ll notice is two tiny “baby” leaves called cotyledons. These leaves are part of the seed itself and provide energy for the plant until it’s big enough to start photosynthesis. You might even see the seed husk attached to one of these leaves—it’s a fascinating process!
At this stage, the plants are still too small to transplant. It’s best to wait until they grow at least three true leaves (the ones that develop after the cotyledons)—the more, the better! A plant is ready for transplanting once it has several true leaves, a healthy stem, and a strong root system.
Transplanting Seedlings into the Ground:
- Prepare the Soil: Start by moistening the soil to make it easier to remove the plants without damaging them.
- Remove the Seedlings: Gently squeeze the container to loosen the soil, then carefully remove the plant along with its roots and the surrounding soil. If multiple plants have their roots tangled together, separate them very gently, ensuring each plant has a sufficiently large and intact root system.
- Dig a Hole: Choose the spot where you want to plant and dig a hole just deep enough to accommodate the roots. Ensure the soil beneath the hole is loose and not compacted, allowing the roots to grow freely, absorb nutrients, and take up water effectively.
- Place the Seedling: Set your seedling in the hole, covering the roots with soil. Lightly press down the soil around the plant to secure it in place. If your plant needs support, such as a pole or stake, now is a good time to add it.
- Water Thoroughly: Water the plant generously, ensuring the water pressure isn’t too intense to dislodge the soil or expose the roots to sunlight. Proper watering at this stage is crucial.
- Daily Care: In the early stages, water your plants every day. As they grow, adjust watering according to their needs and environmental conditions.
Setting Up Your Support System and Watering Tips
When adding a support system, place it close enough to the plant to provide stability, ideally on the north side of the plant. This way, it won’t cast a shadow on your plant. Be cautious not to insert the support into the root system, as this could cause damage to the plant.
When it comes to watering, some gardeners prefer to do it early in the morning. I always water in the evening after sunset. This way, the water doesn’t evaporate quickly, and the plants stay hydrated through the night until the sun comes up. Avoid watering during the heat of a summer day when the sun is at its brightest—it can harm your plants.
Also, remember that some plants should not be watered on their leaves.
Propagating plants from cuttings
I enjoy propagating certain types of perennial herbs using cuttings, and you can do the same with other perennial plants, especially ornamentals. It’s usually faster and easier than starting them from seeds. This method works well for plants with woody trunks that produce fresh green branches with flowers each year, as well as for succulents and other “fat plants.” When you trim these plants, you can use the cut branches to create new ones. Keep in mind that every branch or cutting has the potential to grow into a big plant!
I recommend starting the cuttings in pots inside a greenhouse. This gives you better control over the process and allows you to replace any cutting that doesn’t grow easily. If you plant them directly in the ground, they may struggle to absorb enough nutrients and water, resulting in a lower success rate. But you can always give it a try!
Tips for Growing Cuttings:
- Use New Branches: Choose fresh, new branches for your cuttings—they root much better than older, woody ones.
- Prepare a Clear Stem: Ensure the stem is clean and free of leaves and small branches. Leaves on the stem can lead to rotting, which might spread to the entire cutting.
- Decide on the Top: If you want your cutting to grow tall, leave the top intact. If you’d prefer a smaller, bushier plant, trim the top. This encourages branching on the upper part.
- Pick the Right Medium: Some cuttings can start in water or soil, while others—especially those with woody stems—are better off in soil only. Too much moisture can cause rot.
- Use Nutrient-Rich Soil: Plant your cuttings in high-quality, nutrient-rich soil. You can use store-bought soil or enrich your own with compost to provide the cuttings with the necessary nutrients to thrive.
- Find the Right Spot: Place your pots of new cuttings in a warm, sunny location, just like you would with seedlings.
For Succulents and “Fat Plants”: These can be planted directly into their final pots since they’re less sensitive to dry soil conditions and store water well. Alternatively, you can pre-grow them in water, as they root quickly, but it’s not necessary.
Growing Cuttings in Water
Growing cuttings in water is super simple! I prefer to use a basic glass jar for this, especially for my indoor plants, such as Chlorophytum (spider plants) and Pothos. These are some of the easiest houseplants to work with.
For Chlorophytum, I take a small baby plant from the flower stalk and place its lower part in the water. For Pothos, I cut a section of the plant and put it in a jar with water. In both cases (and really for any plant), it’s essential to remove any leaves that would sit in the water. If the leaves touch the water, they can rot, which can spoil the water and harm the whole cutting.
The leafless part of the cutting will develop roots, making it easier to plant it deeper later on for better stability.
Both plants can also go directly into pots with soil. If you choose this route, ensure the soil remains consistently moist to help them settle and grow well.
How to Make a Natural Growth Booster for Plant Cuttings
When propagating plants from cuttings, providing the proper nutrients and stimulants can significantly improve root development and overall growth. Instead of using synthetic rooting hormones, you can create a natural growth booster using ingredients rich in beneficial compounds that encourage strong root formation. Here are some effective homemade solutions.
1. Willow Water (Natural Rooting Hormone)
Best for: All types of plant cuttings, especially woody plants
Why it works: Willow contains salicylic acid and indolebutyric acid (IBA), which help stimulate root growth and protect against bacteria and fungi.
How to make:
- Collect fresh willow branches (preferably young, flexible stems).
- Chop them into small pieces and place them in a container.
- Pour boiling water over the willow pieces and let them steep for 12 to 24 hours.
- Strain the liquid and store it in a bottle.
- Use the willow water to soak cuttings for a few hours before planting or as a watering solution for new cuttings.
2. Cinnamon Powder (Anti-Fungal & Root Stimulator)
Best for: Preventing rot and boosting root development
Why it works: Cinnamon has natural antifungal properties that help protect cuttings from infections while stimulating new root formation.
How to use:
- Dip the bottom of the cutting in cinnamon powder before planting.
- It can also be mixed into the soil to prevent fungal growth.
3. Honey Rooting Solution
Best for: Soft-stemmed cuttings (herbs, flowers, vegetables)
Why it works: Honey contains natural enzymes and antibacterial properties that help protect cuttings and promote rooting.
How to make:
- Mix one tablespoon of raw honey with two cups of warm water.
- Stir until the mixture is dissolved and let it cool.
- Dip the cuttings into the honey solution before planting.
4. Aloe Vera Gel Booster
Best for: Encouraging healthy root and shoot growth
Why it works: Aloe vera is rich in growth hormones, vitamins, and minerals that help plants establish strong roots.
How to make:
- Extract fresh aloe vera gel from a leaf.
- Blend it with a small amount of water to create a liquid solution.
- Dip cuttings into the aloe gel before planting or mix it into the watering water.
5. Lentil Sprout Growth Hormone
Best for: Promoting root development and vigorous early growth
Why it works: Lentils contain natural auxins, which are plant hormones that stimulate root formation.
How to make:
- Soak ¼ cup of lentils in two cups of water overnight.
- Blend the sprouted lentils with fresh water and strain the liquid.
- Use the liquid to soak cuttings or water young plants.
How to Use These Natural Growth Boosters
- Soak cuttings in willow water or lentil solution for a few hours before planting.
- Dip cuttings into honey, cinnamon, or aloe vera gel before placing them in soil or a suitable medium, such as water.
- Use diluted solutions (like willow water or lentil sprout water) to mist or water cuttings regularly.
By using these natural methods, you can help your plant cuttings develop strong, healthy roots while avoiding chemical-based growth stimulators. Experiment with different boosters to determine which one works best for your plants.