Individual plant families and their specifics
In the section on rotation of crops and interplanting, which are key sustainable gardening practices, we learned that each plant family has its specifics and needs different conditions for good growth. Now, we will look at the individual families in more detail to know how to grow them and next to which plants.
It’s important to note that no garden will have every plant family represented simultaneously. Instead, choose the ones that fit your preferences, climate, and soil conditions, and adjust your selection as needed each year. This way, your garden remains diverse and tailored to your needs while promoting healthy growth for all your plants.
Legumes
Legumes, among the easiest plants to grow, offer the added benefit of enriching the soil. Their unique ability to fix nitrogen in the soil, thanks to microorganisms living in their roots, is a crucial nutrient for the growth of other plants. This simplicity makes legumes an ideal first crop in a rotation plan, helping to prepare and replenish the soil before and after other demanding crops. After harvesting legumes, it’s best to leave their roots in the ground as they release nitrogen into the soil, further enhancing its fertility.
The legume family, which includes a variety of peas, beans, and clover species, is generally easy to cultivate. While they do require ample space for optimal yield, suitable varieties can still be grown in smaller gardens, making them adaptable to different garden sizes.
Best legumes for smaller spaces
For limited spaces, climbing beans that can grow along a fence are an ideal option. Green beans (which can also come in purple or mixed colors) are available in climbing and bush (dwarf) varieties. Both types are highly productive.
Planting and harvesting legumes
Planting:
Legumes can be sown directly into the soil—no need to start them in a greenhouse. Their big seeds are easy to plant, resistant to adverse weather conditions, and less likely to be washed away by rain than smaller seeds.
Spacing and sunlight:
Ensure adequate space between plants for plenty of sunlight. Crowded planting can produce excess moisture, encouraging mold growth and pest infestations.
Watering:
Water legumes at the base rather than on the leaves to prevent fungal issues. Avoid overwatering, but don’t allow long periods of drought, either.
Support for climbers:
Install trellises or supports before the plants grow, ideally while planting seeds.
Recognizing ripe legumes
Legumes are ready to harvest when the pods are dry and the seeds are fully developed. This knowledge will help you confidently recognize when your legumes are ripe for harvesting.
Exceptions are green beans and fava beans, which we should pick while the pods are still tender, and peas, which we harvest while fresh. If left to dry, you can save their seeds for planting next season.
Tip: If ripe bean pods are collected regularly, more will continue to form. We can also support growth with regular (but not too heavy) fertilization.
Companion planting and interplanting with legumes
Legumes can be a beneficial companion to other plants, particularly those that need a lot of nitrogen in the soil, such as nightshades. However, it’s important to avoid overcrowding them, as planting too many legumes between other crops could result in excessive shading or create an overly humid environment.
- Avoid planting beans and peas together.
- Legumes should not be grown alongside:
- Beans and Peas X Alliums (e.g., garlic, onions)
- Peas X Tomatoes
- Peas X Fennel
- Pole Beans X Beets
- Beans X French Marigolds
Propagating legumes
Propagating legumes is probably the easiest because the fruits are the plant’s seeds. So it is enough to let the pods ripen and dry properly. We can store dry legumes in a clean glass jar in a dry, ventilated place. We must ensure that no moisture is left on them, as they will become moldy.
Legume seeds
Legumes have a hard skin that protects them from sprouting in an unsuitable environment – therefore, it is recommended to soak them the day before cooking them. If we leave them soaked for longer, they will start to sprout, and we can eat them as very healthy sprouts.
We can recognize old seeds because they are not hard but soft and wrinkled, and they begin to crumble in the hand. At this stage, they are no longer usable for us.
Harvest times:
Green beans: 50 – 70 days
Black and Kidney beans: 90 – 120 days
Peas: 50 – 70 days
Chickpeas: 90 – 100 days
Lentils: 80 – 110 days
Soybeans: 75 – 100 days
Lima beans: 65 – 85 days for bush varieties, 85 – 95 days for pole varieties
Fava beans: 80 – 90 days
Pigeon beans: 120 – 150 days