Space for storage
When considering space, it’s essential to factor in storage for tools. I recommend a dry, well-ventilated area close to where you’ll be working. The farther away, the more likely you’ll leave your tools outside, leading to quicker deterioration.
Depending on what plants we want to grow and in what quantity, we must carefully consider whether we have enough space to store and process the harvest. This detail might seem obvious, but it is often overlooked.
If we plan to make sauces, jams, or other preserved foods at home, we’ll need ample kitchen space or a separate area. This includes room to store all the necessary equipment, such as large pots, spatulas, strainers, kitchen scales, and empty jars.
We’ll need a warm, well-ventilated space to dry herbs, vegetables, or fruits. Drying them could be as simple as using a food dryer or an oven. Some people hang herbs above the stove to dry them, but I find this method leaves them covered in dust and soot.
Once prepared, store full jars of sauces, compotes, and dried herbs in a cool, dark, and dry place. The same applies to unprocessed fruits and vegetables that store well, such as potatoes, pumpkins, and kiwis.
Watering
It’s best to rely on natural sources like wells, rainwater tanks, or mountain springs to water the garden. Tap water can be costly and often treated with chlorine and other chemicals. In some regions, there may even be restrictions on using potable water for gardening during the summer months (when the garden is in full swing).
Water tanks
I live in the mountains, where we use several natural streams. However, these streams often dry up during the summer or decrease significantly in flow, so I store water in tanks. I allow the water to flow freely, meaning that water from the spring continuously fills the reservoir, and when it’s complete, the excess flows back into the stream. This method keeps the water from stagnating in the tank, and I use only the water I need.
In my area, it’s also common for people to have large tanks next to their homes (often hidden underground) to collect rainwater throughout the year. While this is a viable option, I do not like it. If these tanks are too close to the house, they can bring moisture into the building. Additionally, they often require frequent maintenance, depending on their construction.
It’s essential to clean any water tank regularly, as dirt can accumulate and block the water flow. Tanks should also be well-sealed to prevent leaves from falling inside or animals like lizards, scorpions, or squirrels from falling in and drowning while searching for water in the summer. To help animals and avoid this, always leave a drinker (or a bird bath) in your garden. Make sure it’s not too deep, and clean it regularly.
Different Plants Have Different Water Needs
Remember that water flow requires pressure to water the garden efficiently. For this reason, we’ll need to position our tank at a higher elevation (the higher and farther, the better) or use a pressure pump. Water pressure is also essential for plant irrigation.
Some plants, like tomatoes and zucchini, should not be watered on their leaves, as it increases humidity and can lead to mold and diseases. Additionally, different plants have varying water requirements. For example, melons, cucumbers, and zucchini need lots of water, while tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants don’t require daily watering. For these reasons, I don’t recommend using automatic watering systems, especially if we do interplanting.
Using a Hose
Once we’ve determined the water source, we’ll need a long hose that is securely attached to the water supply and can reach our garden. After each use, it’s a good idea to close off the hose with a screwdriver, wooden pin, or plug to prevent snails from crawling inside.
If the water isn’t flowing:
- The water tank is empty.
- There isn’t enough pressure.
- There’s an air bubble in the hose.
- The dirt or snail clogged the hose or drain.
- The hose is twisted or flattened.
Remember it because it’s always one of these options :-).
I’d love to explain how we can quickly resolve these problems, but there’s no exact method to follow. It usually involves a mix of trial and error – searching for the issue, poking around with a wire, blowing or sucking on the hose (to clear an air bubble – it’s not a metaphor!), and, of course, plenty of cursing along the way.
Yes, there’s also the option to water manually with a watering can, but I strongly discourage this for more extensive gardens. Watering potted plants with a can is fine, but using one for the entire garden is too much work.
Necessary gardening tools
There’s no shortage of gardening tools on the market, and, for sure, we don’t need them all. But many are unnecessary – especially if you’re just starting. When choosing tools, focus on quality craftsmanship, durable materials, and practicality. While budget tools are tempting, they often don’t last long. Investing in quality tools can save you money in the long run and reduce environmental waste, as they can last a lifetime.
Always store your tools in a dry place after use. Failure to do so will require constant repairs, the replacement of wooden handles, or the purchase of new tools entirely. I sound like a nagging parent telling a child to put their toys away, but trust me, it’s easy to get lazy. I have four gardens, each in a different location, and I need dedicated tools. Otherwise, I’d leave them somewhere and never find them again!
Here are the essential tools we’ll need for gardening:
- Hoe: Choose one with a long handle for tilling soil and creating vegetable plots.
- Gardening Spade: Ideal for turning and preparing the soil.
- Stainless Steel Pruning Shears: Choose a sturdy pair that can handle roses and small branches. I often use electrician’s shears, which are small but mighty.
- Durable Gloves: The best gloves are those suited for thorny plants. They don’t need to be too thick to allow precise work like pulling weeds.
- Rake: A classic garden rake will suffice, but specialized rakes can also be helpful. I frequently use a tarmac rake for heavy materials like branches and stones, while leaf rakes are perfect for clearing leaves from flat surfaces like lawns. Remember that leaf rakes aren’t suited for moving heavy materials, as their tines break easily.
- Grass Cutter: You can choose between gas, electric, or traditional tools like a scythe or sickle. Alternatively, consider planting flowers, vegetables, or fruit bushes to reduce the need for mowing altogether.
- Fork: Useful for turning soil, tedding hay, digging up plants, and mixing compost.
Always choose solid materials – preferably stainless steel and wood.
Other Useful Items:
Gardening also requires a few non-tool essentials that we should always keep in an easily accessible spot.
- Rope: Choose natural materials based on your needs. I don’t recommend plastic ropes, as they create extra work when removed and are environmentally unfriendly.
- Plant Support Sticks: Bamboo is a great option. It comes in various lengths, is weather-resistant, and can last years if stored properly. Although plastic rods might last longer, they break easily, creating waste. We can use simple branches, but must replace them yearly as they dry out and become brittle.
- Climbing Plant Supports: These are necessary for plants like beans and cucumbers. We can make them using branches, a fence, bamboo, and rope.
- Small Pots or Containers for Seedlings: We can use any container; buying expensive ones from a gardening shop is unnecessary.
- Wheelbarrow: Essential for transporting tools, soil, plants, weeds, and more.
- Large Container: Handy like a wheelbarrow, especially for small spaces or areas where a wheelbarrow won’t fit, like steep stairs or narrow passages.
- Harvest basket: To gather crops, we can use a wicker basket, harvest apron, or large container. The key is to use something that won’t damage the harvest. For example, a plastic bag is not ideal as it can crush the fruits.
Additional Tools to Consider
Depending on your needs and available resources, you might consider using other tools and specialized tools that are helpful:
- Motor Hoe: This tool works the soil faster and more profoundly than a hand hoe or spade. However, it requires physical strength to handle and, in my experience, often breaks down, leading to more time spent fixing it than using it. If we opt for the no-dig method or raised beds, we don’t need it.
- Brushcutter: If you have a powerful grass cutter, you can attach a brushcutter head to tackle shrubs and bushes. It’s beneficial in my area, where blackberry bushes proliferate. Hand-removing them would take forever.
- Branch Shredder: This tool is ideal for breaking down branches into mulch. However, I’m unsure how valuable it is for home use, as I usually collect small branches to use as kindling on my stove or to add to my compost.
Also, wear suitable clothing, as dirt can be challenging to wash. I remember my grandfather having two pairs of wellies—one for winter and one for summer. The summer pair were standard wellies, but he cleverly cut off the top half with a knife to make them more summer-like.
My mom and I were also quite the “fashionistas.” Every time we visited my grandparents, we’d change into our “work” clothes and turn it into a fun competition—seeing who could come up with the most ridiculous, impossible outfit.
Greenhouse and hotbeds
Having a greenhouse in your garden is undeniably a joy. It serves multiple purposes, from storing potted plants during winter to nurturing seedlings and cultivating early leafy greens or other vegetables. In summer, I plant a lot of basil there to make plenty of pesto alla Genovese.
A greenhouse is worth considering if you have enough space in your garden. Be sure to obtain any necessary construction permits before building. A greenhouse should have a solid and durable structure. Avoid the flimsy options sold in supermarkets, which you can assemble in minutes; they rarely last beyond a season and are vulnerable to heavy rain or strong winds. Instead, invest in high-quality materials to ensure your greenhouse will last for decades.
When deciding on the best material for your greenhouse, consider your needs and the space available.
My grandmother had a traditional greenhouse with an iron frame and glass panels. This type is typically hermetically sealed, creating a hot and humid environment, ideal for many plants. However, the downside is that glass panels are prone to breakage, and replacing them can be expensive and challenging. She also had a small stove inside to keep the greenhouse warm during chilly spring days. Alternatively, you can use raised beds filled with decomposing organic materials like leaves, which generate heat as they break down, keeping seedlings warm from below.
I built my greenhouse using wood and plexiglass, a more affordable option that works well. Mine isn’t hermetically sealed, allowing for constant air circulation, which prevents excessive humidity. During the summer, I keep the doors and windows open. Even with these openings, I can maintain an internal temperature of about 10°C in winter (of course, depending on the general weather conditions).
This warm and dry environment naturally attracts various insects. For example, European paper wasps build a few nests there each year, but they don’t cause any trouble, so I let them stay. A carpenter bee has also tunneled into the wooden structure, which isn’t ideal, but the structure remains stable for now, so I’ve left her undisturbed. My daughter and I enjoy observing spider nests and watching their tiny inhabitants grow. My grandmother’s greenhouse didn’t have such visitors due to its more humid conditions, but I do recall a frog making its home there. One thing to consider: any structure in your garden is likely to attract wildlife seeking shelter.
When designing a greenhouse, consider its purpose. Will you use it year-round to grow vegetables or primarily for raising seedlings?
My greenhouse is multifunctional, allowing for year-round use. In winter, I store potted plants on shelves. Come spring, these plants move outdoors, and the greenhouse becomes a nursery for seedlings. Some plants, like Opuntia cactus, aloe vera, and avocados, stay there all year. I also have a raised bed where I rotate crops. During winter, I grow lettuce and arugula; in spring, I plant a variety of leafy greens; and in summer, I grow basil, taking advantage of partial shade from nearby trees.
I also used to dry herbs in the greenhouse by creating a shaded area to hang them. Or use special ventilated food drying trays for vegetables.
Additionally, I use the greenhouse to store pots, garden tools, and other essential gardening items.
Lastly, consider your watering system. Ensure you have a nearby and easily accessible water source, as consistent watering is crucial for maintaining a thriving greenhouse.
Hotbeds
Hotbeds are ideal for growing seedlings and small vegetables, such as lettuce. They allow you to cultivate plants even during cold weather, as decomposing organic material and a small enclosed space generate a warm, humid environment. Hotbeds are an excellent alternative to greenhouses for gardens with limited space or a complementary addition to a greenhouse, offering more options for extending your growing season.
Simple Steps to Create a Hotbed
To make a hotbed, start digging a shallow pit or building a raised frame in your chosen location. Fill the bottom with layers of decomposing organic material such as leaves, straw, or manure. This layer will serve as the heat source as it breaks down. Cover the organic material with a layer of soil, which acts as the planting medium. Finally, place a frame with a transparent cover, like an old window or a clear plastic sheet, over the top to trap heat and moisture.
Position your hotbed in a sunny spot to maximize warmth. Regularly monitor the temperature and moisture levels, adjusting ventilation by propping open the cover slightly on warm days. A well-maintained hotbed can provide a thriving environment for seedlings and cold-tolerant vegetables, even in early spring or late fall.